Demo video is a dramatization. Results vary with leather age and finish.
“The deep black color came right back”
“My old leather jacket was stiff as cardboard and severely faded on the shoulders from years of sun, wind, and highway rain. I didn’t want to buy a new one because this one already has all my miles on it. Wiped a thin coat of this on, worked it into the seams, and buffed it out. The deep black color came right back, and the leather is soft and pliable again without feeling greasy or leaving residue on my bike. Wish I had found this years ago.”
Feeds dry, stiff riding jackets, saddlebags and seats back to soft, deep, supple leather, without petroleum, silicone or a slick finish. Gloves and boots get the leftovers.
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“The deep black color came right back”
“My old leather jacket was stiff as cardboard and severely faded on the shoulders from years of sun, wind, and highway rain. I didn’t want to buy a new one because this one already has all my miles on it. Wiped a thin coat of this on, worked it into the seams, and buffed it out. The deep black color came right back, and the leather is soft and pliable again without feeling greasy or leaving residue on my bike. Wish I had found this years ago.”
Try it for 30 days, starting the day it arrives. If you're not happy, we'll refund you in full.*
*Refunds are handled under our refund policy.
Free shipping on every order. We pack each order by hand, so please allow a few days for preparation; most orders arrive within 7–13 business days depending on your location. Questions about a delivery? Our support team will help.
Each jar holds 100 ml / 3.4 fl oz of Wood & Leather Salve. Bonus jars, the applicator brush and the pre-cleaning wipes depend on the bundle you choose above.
Every piece is different: age, earlier finishes and cleaning products all affect the result. Always test a small hidden spot first and let it dry completely. Made for finished wood and smooth, absorbent leather. Not for suede, nubuck, unfinished, synthetic, textile or bonded materials. Pemberton's isn't responsible for damage from misuse, skipping the test spot or use on unsuitable surfaces.
Before and after
Nothing soaked, nothing stripped, nothing replaced.
Before
AfterStiff at the elbows, grey across the shoulders, a collar that curled up and stayed that way.
Wiped down with a damp cloth, fed one evening, left on the hanger overnight and buffed in the morning. Deep black again, and it bent at the elbow without a fight. Same jacket, same scuffs.
Before
AfterSun-faded lids, sides starting to sag, straps stiff enough to fight the buckles.
Cleaned, a thin coat worked in by hand, a second light coat on the lids the next day, buffed dry. The color came back dark and even, and the lids sat flat again. Still check the stitching and buckles every season. It's still old leather.
Before
AfterChalky and dry right in the middle, darker at the edges, the kind of seat you start pricing replacements for.
Wiped clean, the thinnest coat, ten minutes, then buffed hard with a dry cloth. An even, deep black from edge to edge, and dry to the touch, not slick.
Before
AfterWater spots, white salt lines and stiff creases at the ankle and the shifter.
Left to dry slowly at room temperature, never by the heater, then a thin coat worked into the creases and buffed. Soft at the ankle again, and the salt lines gone.
Illustrative before and after images. Results vary with age, finish and leather type.
If two or more of these are true about your gear, the leather is trying to tell you something:
These aren't five problems. It's one problem in five places: the leather has dried out, and everything sprayed, oiled or wiped on it has sat on top instead of feeding it.
Why it failed
It looks great for a week, but it sits on top instead of feeding anything. Seats turn slick at the first stoplight, dust sticks to the film, and the leather underneath keeps drying out.
Why it failed
Animal oils soften fast, sometimes too fast. Bags go soft and lose their shape, lighter leather darkens for good, and in a damp garage they can draw mold. Many "compound" bottles are cut with petroleum, too.
Why it failed
Soap and wipes strip the oils you're trying to keep, and heat pulls the rest out with the water. That's how gloves come out hard as a rock and a size smaller.
The missing piece
One salve that does three jobs at once: works into the dry fibers instead of flooding them, feeds the leather that has gone stiff and grey, and buffs to a thin, breathable natural wax instead of a slick or sticky film.
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Straight from the leather bench
Most saddlebags that look finished aren't. The lids have gone hard, the sides sag, and somebody has said it's time for a new set. Nine times out of ten the leather is sound. It's dried out, or it's been drowned in the wrong stuff.
The old way was a thin coat, a rag and patience, not a spray can or a tin of grease. That's all this jar is: the bench recipe, without the petroleum.
Liam O'Rourke, Motorcycle Leather Specialist, Spokane, Washington
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Riding leather is hide, and it works like your own skin. It holds its oils deep in the fibers, with a finished grain side on top, the side that takes the wind, the sun and the rain.
While the oils underneath are still there, you never think about your leather at all:
Over the miles and the winters those oils dry out, and most of what goes on makes it worse: shine sprays, heavy animal oils, kitchen oils, dish soap and wipes.
Nothing gets fed, everything gets coated or soaked. The sprays and oils on the parts-store shelf are a big part of why your gear looks worse every season.
And it builds, season after season.
That glossy seat after the protectant spray isn't the leather healing. It's a film sitting on top, holding every bit of road dust while the hide underneath keeps drying.
The stiff jacket is the same story. The leather isn't worn out. It's gone years without the oils it started with, and nothing put on it ever fed it evenly.
The shine spray, the mink oil, the olive oil, the dish soap? Right idea, wrong tool.
Your gear is sitting under the wrong coating, and the leather underneath is running on empty.
The longer it goes, the closer it gets to cracking, and cracks don't come back. Another season with Dad's jacket in the closet while you ride in a textile one.
Long before the parts-store shelf filled up with sprays and petroleum blends, leather was kept with oil, a rag and a wax. Pemberton's is that idea in one jar, built for three jobs.
Small-molecule plant oils work into the dry fibers in a thin coat instead of flooding them, so the leather takes what it needs and nothing pools.
Shea butter and the oils put back what sun, wind and rain pulled out, so stiff elbows bend again and grey leather gets its color back.
Beeswax and carnauba buff to a thin, breathable finish. Rain beads off, road grime wipes off, and nothing slick is left on the seat.
Works into the grain
Light enough to travel through a worn finish or dry leather instead of pooling on top.
Closest to leather's own oil
Absorbs evenly into dry hide, so nothing goes patchy.
Feeds what dried out
Puts body back into stiff, thirsty leather so it reads deep and flexes again.
Seals without silicone
A thin, breathable layer. Water beads off and nothing gets locked in.
Buffs to a low sheen
The hardest natural wax. Dry to the touch, never sticky, never plastic-shiny.
Keeps it fresh
A natural preservative, which is why there's no fragrance or synthetic stabilizer in the jar.
This isn't coating the problem. It's feeding what's underneath.
Before you open the jar
On black riding leather you won't see a change once it's buffed. Like any oil-and-wax conditioner, it can deepen brown, tan or lighter leather, especially if it's new or untreated. Test a hidden spot first and give it a day to settle.
Not if you go thin and buff. The wax buffs dry. Use the lightest coat on the seat and buff it well with a dry cloth before you ride.
Yes, on the leather. Wipe a thin coat across the surface and don't let it pool in perforations or seams. Take the armor out first if it's in the way.
It helps leather shed rain and road grime, but it isn't a waterproofing treatment. In a real downpour, wear rain gear over your leathers, then let them dry slowly at room temperature.
No. Once leather has cracked, no conditioner closes the crack. What it does is bring back leather that's dry, stiff or faded before it gets that far, and keep the rest of the piece from going the same way.
There's no petroleum, silicone or solvents in it, just plant oils and waxes. Old bags and jackets still need their stitching and buckles checked regularly, whatever you put on them.
No. It's for smooth, finished leather. On suede and nubuck it darkens and flattens the nap, and textile gear has nothing in it to feed.
Clean and condition it before it goes away, not after. Hang jackets on a wide hanger, use a breathable cotton bag instead of plastic, stuff gloves loosely and lay them flat, and keep everything away from heaters and damp basements.
A thin coat on a jacket uses a fair part of a jar, a pair of saddlebags about the same, a seat or a pair of gloves very little. Most riders pick a bundle so the jacket, the bags and the seat all get done.
Before winter storage, again in spring, and whenever the leather starts to feel dry or stiff. In a hot, sunny season that's usually every couple of months, more often for gloves and seats.
Your first order ships at the bundle price you choose. After that, refills ship every month at the price shown under the Add to cart button until you skip, pause or cancel, which you can do anytime from your account or by emailing us.
The jacket with a hundred thousand miles in it. The saddlebags that have seen both coasts. Dad's old riding coat in the back of the closet. They don't need replacing or a shop bill. They need feeding.
Pemberton's exists so that leather gets ridden again, for another season and another generation.
One jar for the jacket, the bags and the seat. Try it on the one that matters, with 30 days to decide.
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