“Brought a family heirloom back to life”
“Used this on an old oak dining table that had been sitting in my parents' attic for over two decades. The dry, dull finish absorbed it completely overnight. Buffed it off the next morning and the wood grain came alive again with a smooth, soft finish. Absolutely beautiful result.”
Feeds the dry, grey wood on Mom's sideboard and the stiff, cracking leather on Dad's recliner with the same jar. No stripping, no dye, no silicone, no greasy film.
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“Brought a family heirloom back to life”
“Used this on an old oak dining table that had been sitting in my parents' attic for over two decades. The dry, dull finish absorbed it completely overnight. Buffed it off the next morning and the wood grain came alive again with a smooth, soft finish. Absolutely beautiful result.”
Try it for 30 days, starting the day it arrives. If you're not happy, we'll refund you in full.*
*Refunds are handled under our refund policy.
Free shipping on every US order. We pack each order by hand, so please allow a few days for preparation; most orders arrive within 7–13 business days depending on your location. Questions about a delivery? Our support team will help.
Each jar holds 100 ml / 3.4 fl oz of Wood & Leather Salve. Bonus jars, the applicator brush and the pre-cleaning wipes depend on the bundle you choose above.
Every piece is different: age, earlier finishes and cleaning products all affect the result. Always test a small hidden spot first and let it dry completely. Made for finished wood and smooth, absorbent leather. Not for suede, nubuck, unfinished, synthetic or bonded materials. Pemberton's isn't responsible for damage from misuse, skipping the test spot or use on unsuitable surfaces.
If two or more of these sound like your house, your furniture is trying to tell you something:
These aren't five problems. It's one problem in five places: the wood and the leather have dried out, and everything sprayed or wiped on them has sat on top instead of feeding them.
Wood and leather behave the same way. Both are natural materials that hold their own oils, and both have a thin top layer: the clear finish on your table, the grain side of the hide on your sofa. That layer is what you actually see.
While the oils underneath are still there, you never think about either one:
Over the years those oils dry out, and most of what goes on top makes it worse: silicone spray on the wood, wipes and thick creams on the leather.
Nothing gets fed, everything gets covered. The sprays and wipes sold to protect furniture are a big part of why it looks worse every year.
And it builds, year after year.
That haze on the tabletop isn't a stain in the wood. It's fog under glass, like a bathroom mirror after a shower, except this glass has been sealed shut with silicone.
The cracks on the sofa arm are the same story. The leather isn't worn out. It's gone years without the oils it started with, and the wipes only shined the surface.
The mayo, the iron, the spray polish, the leather wipes? Right idea, wrong tool.
Your table is under cling wrap, and your sofa is running on empty.
The longer it goes, the more permanent it feels. More haze, more grey, more cracks. Another holiday with the runner on the table and the throw over the arm.
Why it failed
Home remedies push a little oil or heat into the finish and get a partial lift, but there's no wax to hold anything, so it creeps back. Olive oil soaks into leather unevenly and can go sticky or rancid, and magic erasers rub the finish off to a lighter patch.
Why it failed
They all sit on top. Spray polish adds silicone and haze, tinted scratch covers wash off with the next wipe, and grocery-store leather wipes shine for a day and do nothing for the dryness. The damage gets covered, not fed.
Why it failed
The restorer wants steel wool, a color match, an open window and a warning label. The conditioner goes on like syrup and can leave one arm darker than the other. Two bottles under the sink, and neither one does both jobs.
The missing piece
One salve that does three jobs at once: works into the dried-out finish, feeds the grain and the hide underneath, and seals with a thin, breathable natural wax instead of a silicone film. Wood and leather, one jar.
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Before petroleum blends took over the shelf, furniture was kept with plant oil, a rag and a wax. Pemberton's is that idea in one jar, built for three jobs. Wood and leather alike.
Small-molecule plant oils travel through a tired finish and into dry leather in a thin coat, instead of flooding the surface.
Shea butter and the oils put back what the wood and the hide lost, so the grey goes and the grain comes back the color it was.
Beeswax and carnauba buff to a thin, breathable layer. Spills wipe off, nothing is sticky, and a refinisher can still work on it later.
Works into the grain
Light enough to travel through a worn finish or dry leather instead of pooling on top.
Closest to leather's own oil
Absorbs evenly into dry hide and dry wood alike, so nothing goes patchy.
Feeds what dried out
Puts body back into thirsty wood and stiff leather so it reads warm and flexes again.
Seals without silicone
A thin, breathable layer. Water beads off and nothing gets locked in.
Buffs to a low sheen
The hardest natural wax. Dry to the touch, never sticky, never plastic-shiny.
Keeps it fresh
A natural preservative, which is why there's no fragrance or synthetic stabilizer in the jar.
This isn't covering the problem. It's feeding what's underneath.
Before and after
Nothing stripped, nothing sanded, nothing reupholstered.
Before
AfterA grey haze, pale spots where plates and elbows go, and homework scratches from three kids.
Cleaned, one thin coat along the grain, buffed after an hour. A rich oak color and a soft glow, and nothing came off on the napkins at dinner that night.
Before
AfterClaw scratches everywhere, all showing pale against the caramel, and cushions that felt dry and squeaky.
One coat across all three cushions, rubbed in with a cotton cloth and left overnight. By morning most of the light scratches had sunk into the color and the leather felt soft instead of squeaky. The dog approved first.
Before
AfterHazy, grey-brown and dusty, the grain almost gone. Too precious to strip, too tired to ignore.
Dusted, wiped, fed with a cotton cloth and buffed the next afternoon. Warm walnut again, with the grain back and every old mark still there. It looks like hers again.
Before
AfterThe arms had gone pale and papery where hands rest every night, and the headrest felt like cardboard. A new recliner was on the Christmas list.
Vacuumed the seams, wiped it down, worked in one thin coat after dinner and buffed it before the game. The arms came back a deep, even brown and the leather felt soft again. He still won't let anyone else sit in it.
Illustrative before and after images. Results vary with age, finish, wood and leather type.
Straight from the bench
In forty years at the restoration bench, the biggest myth I've seen is that dull wood or faded leather needs total replacement. Most of the time, the original finish isn't broken. It's just starving for moisture.
Before you let someone strip away decades of character or throw out a piece that holds memories, give it a proper feed. This is the kind of wax formula I reach for to bring an heirloom back to life in a single afternoon.
Arthur Pendelton, Valley Wood & Leather Guild, Lancaster, Pennsylvania
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Before you open the jar
Yes. Wood and leather dry out the same way, and the same six ingredients feed both. Do the table, then the sofa, with the same jar and the same cloth. Test a hidden spot on each first.
Yes. It works over oil, varnish, lacquer and shellac finishes, feeding the wood through the finish and leaving a thin wax layer on top. Test a hidden spot first.
Not if you go thin and buff. After about ten minutes, buff until nothing comes off on your hand.
Light surface scratches and worn spots on a dry finish often blend in once the wood is fed. Deep gouges and dents stay.
Usually not. White rings are moisture trapped in the finish and need a different fix. Feeding the wood helps everything around them look even.
While it's wet it deepens the color, then settles back as you buff. There's no dye in it, so the shade you end up with is your leather's own color, fed. Light and cream leathers deepen the most, so test under a cushion first.
No. Those are a plastic or polyurethane layer over fibers, and there's nothing in them to feed. If your sofa is peeling in flakes, it's bonded leather and no conditioner will fix it.
No. It softens dry leather so it's less likely to keep cracking, but cracks, tears and peeling need a repair kit or an upholsterer.
No added scent and no citrus oils. You'll notice a faint natural beeswax smell while the jar is open, and that's it.
Every few months for kitchen cabinets and tables in daily use, once or twice a year for furniture that's mostly looked at.
A thin coat on a dining table uses very little; a three-seat leather sofa can take a good part of a jar. Most people pick a bundle so the table, the sideboard and the sofa all get done.
Your first order ships at the bundle price you choose. After that, refills ship every month at the price shown under the Add to cart button until you skip, pause or cancel, which you can do anytime from your account or by emailing us.
The table Dad carved the turkey on. The sideboard that was Mom's. The recliner nobody else is allowed to sit in. They don't need replacing, stripping or reupholstering. They need feeding.
Pemberton's exists so those pieces stay in the family, looking like they belong there, for another fifty years.
One jar for the wood and the leather. Try it on the piece that matters, with 30 days to decide.
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